2023-08-05 05:00:00
ARTYA Curvy Purity Tourbillon
Last descendant of the family of Purity Tourbillon movements from the ArtyA manufacture, the movement of the Curvy has been entirely designed and redesigned to fit into a tonneau case with a crown placed at 12 o’clock. Its brand new sapphire case, a specialty of the Geneva brand, offers a distinct and daring look that stands out from conventional watches. Its elongated oval shape with curved sides creates an elegant and technical design. Third hardest mineral, after diamond and moissanite, sapphire crystal is time-consuming, difficult and expensive to process into a complete case to ArtyA’s high standards. The curved angles of the transparent tonneau case make it possible to doubly appreciate the immense 17mm 4Hz tourbillon floating in its centre. The culmination of the collection, the Curvy Purity Tourbillon offers a latest-generation manufacture movement in a case whose curved shape follows the natural curve of the wrist. It still benefits from the double barrel mounted in parallel to maintain an exceptional power reserve of 72 hours. Sandblasted with cast iron or bevelled by hand, this new caliber is a worthy addition to the large collection of high complications ArtyA.
BIANCHET Flying tourbillon Large date
Bianchet, a 100% independent Swiss family watch brand, designs and develops its own ultra-modern tourbillon watches, drawing on age-old design principles such as the golden ratio 1.618 and the Fibonacci sequence, to create a collection of timepieces imbued with a spirit of timelessness and of modernity. Flying Tourbillon Grande Date B1.618, the young brand’s second model, captures the quintessence of ultra-modern trends with its fluid shapes, streamlined tonneau case, created in an exclusive composite of high-density carbon and titanium powder, which highlight value a movement with an openwork titanium flying tourbillon and a large date. Entirely made in Switzerland and assembled in the Bianchet workshops in La-Chaux-De-Fonds, the caliber is ennobled by hand finishing which enhances the beauty of its components. Particularly difficult to achieve on titanium, the chamfering, guided by the hand of the craftsman, gives life to the contours of the bridges, reveals the shapes and gives shine to the winding parts, while leading the eye towards transparency. and the intricacies of the movement’s architecture. The two complications of the Bianchet caliber are aligned on the golden rectangles which form the structure of its construction. While the design of the front bridges starts from the central point of the tourbillon cage to follow the gentle curves dictated by the Fibonacci sequence, the rear bridges develop in concentric golden circles whose diameters respect the 1.618 golden ratio. One of the few curved carbon watches capable of withstanding 100-meter water resistance and 5000G shocks, the B1.618 Flying Tourbillon Grande Date watch was designed to be versatile and worn every day, including during sports and nautical activities. Only 200 pieces will be produced this year.
BREITLING Premier B21 Tourbillon Chronograph 42 Léon Breitling
The Premier Tourbillon is a series intended for lovers of mechanics and the magic of watchmaking. Named in honor of each of the Breitling founders, Léon, Gaston and Willy, the three watches feature elegant square pushers and Arabic numerals, signature elements of the Premier collection. The symmetrical design of their dial, the harmonious interplay of numerals and the tone-on-tone color palette strike a perfect balance with the undisputed star of the show: the tourbillon, placed center stage at 12 o’clock. The open sapphire crystal caseback is domed to highlight the B21 movement, whose oscillating weight and tourbillon are set in contrasting 18-carat gold. Breitling has teamed up with the manufacture specializing in La Joux-Perret movements to develop the sublime B21 movement. Its unusual combination of a tourbillon and a chronograph makes this trio of watches so distinctively Breitling.
BVLGARI Oct Rome Striking Butterfly Tourbillon
The Octo Roma Papillon Tourbillon watch offers a modern interpretation Haute Horlogerie, with a progressive, even transgressive vision of the (de)construction of time. This timepiece considerably renews the practice of the Tourbillon. Sporting an octagonal titanium case with black DLC treatment in contrast with the touches of bright green and a tourbillon placed in the center of the dial, this watch with a contemporary and urban design is intended for lovers of creative complications. The whirlwind unfolds in the center of the stage, imperial. Bulgari has decided to place this major Haute Horlogerie complication, for which the patent was filed in 1801, in majesty, to offer it a place commensurate with its prestige. Hypnotic, it immediately captures attention with its guaranteed 60-hour power reserve. The Octo Roma Papillon Tourbillon displays a powerful, technical but above all playful look: the hour is read by a fixed window at noon while the minutes are indicated on a semi-circle traversed alternately by two diamond-shaped hands. A rubberized black alligator strap completes the model.
BOVET 1822 Virtuoso XI
The mechanical excellence of a fine watchmaking movement arouses admiration in the whole world. Bewitched by the rotations and oscillations of a balance wheel or a tourbillon, one contemplates the meticulousness of the gears, the sensual lines of the bridges, the finishes of the plates and all these dazzling details. It is not surprising that the skeletonized movements, because they reveal the infinite complexity of the mechanisms, exercise a particular attraction. Since Mr. Pascal Raffy took over the reins of Bovet twenty-two years ago, he has never ceased to make the movement visible, by exposing Haute Horlogerie to the gaze of all, while reinforcing the commitment of the House in favor of the decorative arts. Mechanical art being thus at the heart of the House’s creations, it may seem surprising that the new Virtuoso XI is the very first fully skeletonized timepiece ever presented by Bovet 1822. And what a skeleton! To obtain a skeletonized movement, all the art consists in removing enough material to sublimate its aesthetics and reveal all of its internal mechanisms, while preserving its robustness so that it can function impeccably. If the bridges were excessively refined, for example, they could become deformed and compromise the performance of the movement. It is for this reason that the Virtuoso XI flying tourbillon movement, first used in the Virtuoso VIII (2017) and already adorned with superb and delicate details, has been completely redesigned with the specific purpose of being openworked. The original large date has been removed and the gear train has been moved to a more aesthetically pleasing location, while the entire movement has been redesigned to be fully skeletonised. Right from the start, the bridges and plates were slimmed down, and when structural constraints made it impossible to lighten them further, chamfering and bevelling took over to give them a more delicate appearance. For the Virtuoso XI, the movement was designed from the outset with enough room to engrave and admire both sides of the bridges and plates. The result is then exceptional. With unequaled transparency among all the timepieces ever produced by Bovet, this haute horlogerie movement places the smallest of its components center stage. You can thus plunge into the heart of the movement and wander your gaze over its construction, admiring its transparency, its sense of detail, its incredible level of finish and its ethereal rendering. (…)
AUDEMARS PIGUET Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon « Spider-Man »
Audemars Piguet unveils the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man” as part of its second collaboration with Marvel, which began in 2021. Combining ancestral know-how and futuristic technology, this 42 mm titanium and black ceramic timepiece is a feat of skeleton work and highlights the inexhaustible creativity of the Manufacture in terms of complicated watches. This model also embodies the brand’s desire to forge links with different cultural universes, seeking inspiration beyond the world of Haute Horlogerie, particularly in pop culture. Limited to 250 copies.
ARNOLD & SON Ultrathin Tourbillon Gold
One of the finest tourbillons in the world is shedding its ornaments. Brought back to its purest expression, Ultrathin Tourbillon Gold is revealed with elegance. Its vast dial features an almost lunar silver opaline finish, while the off-center hour dial is in genuine white opal. Fine and bathed, the 5N red gold case encircles the dial. A net of the same golden color surrounds the hour dial and the tourbillon opening. A roundness that is repeated, implanted according to a soft but rigorous geometry. In this symmetry, the tourbillon carriage stands out all the more clearly. At the heart ofUltrathin Tourbillon Gold beats the A&S8300 caliber which, at only 2.97 mm thick, is one of the thinnest ever designed. The highest point of the latter is located at the top of its tourbillon cage. The redesigned tourbillon carriage recalls the leading role of John Arnold in the discoveries on the high seas of the 18th century. Its triangular shape evokes the sextant and its double-arrow counterweight represents an anchor. The point in the middle serves as a marker of the second since the speed of rotation of the cage is one minute. Behind this tourbillon, through the opening in the plate, appears its bridge, hand-engraved with a design inspired by the engravings found on John Arnold’s pocket watches. Made of 3N yellow gold, it blends in with the gear train while standing out from the aesthetics of the rest of the caliber. Finally, modifications to the tourbillon carriage and the regulating organ led to an increase in the power reserve of the A&S8300 caliber, which reaches 100 hours.
Editorial coordination: Eyquem Pons
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