Alessandro Michele staged his fifth runway show for Valentino at Paris Fashion Week on Sunday afternoon, presenting a dancefloor-ready collection featuring satin bustiers, sheer skirts, and debauched menswear silhouettes.
The Valentino Turnaround Strategy
- Alessandro Michele has rolled out 10 collections and four catwalk shows in just 30 months as creative director.
- Valentino’s revenue declined 15% to €1.12bn in 2025 within a turbulent luxury market.
- The brand is controlled by Mayhoola with a 70% stake, alongside French luxury group Kering holding the remaining 30%.
Satin Bustiers and Dancefloor Menswear in Paris
Held at the Sainte-Geneviève library on Sunday afternoon, the show opened with a series of satin bustier tops paired with knee-length skirts. Some skirts appeared almost see-through in gauzy fabrics, while others came smothered in glimmering beads or trimmed with feathers. The debauched partying mood carried into the menswear pieces, showcasing creased trousers, silky boxers peaking out above waistbands, and mis-buttoned double-breasted blazers. Speaking after the show, Michele stated he enjoyed playing with “the idea of glamour in the wrong way” and described “sensuality as part of the vocabulary of the brand”.
Challenging Codes with Villain Teen Caps and Tailoring
While the brand’s founder Valentino Garavani famously recoiled at casual items like flip-flops and shorts, Michele chose to toy with traditional codes. Models wore deep V-cut cotton vest tops alongside brightly coloured baseball caps emblazoned with “Villain Teen”. Michele explained that he enjoyed how the phrase sounded like “Villain-Teen-O” and noted that in Italian it serves as “a chic way to say you’re a little outside of the rules”. He added, “Where everything is perfect, it’s an elegant way to make something wrong.” The collection also heavily featured blazers while paring back the designer’s signature voluminous silhouettes in favor of exposing skin.
Targeting the Red Carpet and Hollywood
Valentino’s primary sweet spot and the core of Michele’s turnaround strategy remains red carpet dressing. The latest collection featured longer length ruffle and bow-adorned dresses tailored for high-profile Hollywood events. In an era where red carpet looks are captured in 360 degrees and immediately dissected online, Michele’s designs relied on extra visual impact. A concluding hot pink dress featured a giant pleated train and a huge black bow that bounced down the catwalk while grazing the audience’s knees.
| Metric / Detail | Value / Status |
|---|---|
| Designer Tenure | 30 Months (5th runway show) |
| Parent Company Stake (Mayhoola) | 70% |
| Kering Stake Options | 30% (with options up to 100% by end of decade) |
| Financial Performance (2025) | €1.12bn revenue (15% decline) |
Ownership Structure and Future Outlook
Valentino remains controlled by Mayhoola, which owns 70% of the company. The French luxury group Kering holds the remaining 30% with options to increase its stake to 100% before the end of the decade. As Michele continues his tenure, his opulent outlook positions the house to capture the rising tide of personality dressing as quiet luxury cools down.
