2023-07-24 08:01:23
In recent years, semi-permanent varnishes have been on the rise. More resistant than conventional varnishes, semi-permanent ones require placing your hands under ultraviolet (UV) lamps for them to harden. Is this exposure safe? This is what researchers from San Diego (United States) wanted to verify, whose study has just been published in the prestigious journal Nature. Prof. Caroline Robert, head of the dermatology department at Gustave Roussyagreed to comment on it for us.
Can you briefly explain to us what this study consisted of and what it showed?
Pr Caroline Robert : This is a study in vitro carried out on cell cultures of fibroblasts and keratinocytes, cells similar to those of the skin and the matrix of the nails. They were subjected to UVA radiation, which corresponds to the type of UV emitted by the lamps used for semi-permanent varnishes. The exposure lasted 20 minutes either ad hoc, twice the same day, or repeatedly, once a day for three days.
The researchers have thus shown that these UV rays cause the production of reactive oxygen species responsible for DNA mutations. This mutagenesis is dose-dependent, ie the longer the exposure, the more mutations there are. Moreover, the mutations observed corresponded to those found in melanomas.
In other words, repeated exposure to these UV lamps can cause cancer in the hands?
It is difficult to extrapolate these results to humans because this study was carried out on cells in the laboratory. But we know that UVA rays are capable of penetrating deep into the dermis and they have already been incriminated in cancers caused by tanning booths. We therefore have a range of elements to suggest that there is indeed a link between these lamps and skin cancer in the hands.
But unlike tanning booths where an epidemic of small melanomas had been observed, the study published in Nature only refers to two cases of hand cancer in women who used UV lamps to dry their varnish. We are therefore not yet in a position to assess the level of risk.
What advice do you have for women using semi-permanent nail polish?
Already, natural nails aren’t bad either (laughs)! I also take this opportunity to remind you that manicures are traumatic for the nails because the cuticles will be pushed back. However, these small skins are a natural protection against infections. If, however, you want to continue using semi-permanent varnish, I can recommend applying an anti-UVA sunscreen to limit the risks.
Interview by Emilie Groyer
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