London fashion favorites Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida staged their spring collection in Milan on Sunday, marking the brand’s first show in Milan. The duo paired lean taffeta tops and cargo cotton miniskirts with a grungy undertone, exploring a more mature approach to occasion wear while retaining their signature rebellious East London edge.
- The Milan Shift: Marques’ Almeida debuted their spring collection in Milan on Sunday, breaking a long-running tradition of showing in London.
- Design Evolution: The collection pairs sophisticated occasion wear—like taffeta tops and silver sequins—with the brand’s signature East London grunge.
- Balancing Acts: Designers Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida walk the line between polite, composed dressing and their rebellious, club-savvy roots.
Decoding the Milan Debut for Marques’ Almeida
For a brand born out of an East London studio in 2011, moving across the English Channel to show in Italy is no small gamble. Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida have long toyed with different cities and presentation formats, but Sunday’s Milan runway felt like a genuine testing ground. The collection delivered a distinct tension between polished construction and deliberate disarray.
Consider the styling from the waist down. Lean taffeta tops met barrel-leg pants secured by structured peplums, while handkerchief dresses featured panels jutting aggressively from both sides. Cargo cotton miniskirts arrived paired with billowing trains in velvety silk, and shantung sundresses sported maxi ruffles.
Garments Bridging DIY Roots and Mature Tailoring
The designers have spent recent seasons experimenting with a dressier space, attempting to reconcile their underground past with a clientele that has theoretically grown up. “We’re exploring this kind of occasion wear and this more dressy [approach], always with that grungy undertone,” Marques explained to reporters ahead of the show. She acknowledged that the Milan display reflects an ongoing evolution, stating, “I think it suits where we are.”
Yet, the rebellious spirit refused to stay entirely quiet. Subtle styling choices ensured the clothes retained their grit. A handsome black silk bias frock carried heavy Goth undertones, while a military green bustier was thrown off-kilter when paired with baggy pants. Offbeat plaid checks fractured asymmetrical dresses, and high-platform, chunky sneakers anchored floor-sweeping slipdresses.
| Collection Element | Primary Garment Style | Styling & Subversive Detail |
|---|---|---|
| Occasion Wear | Lean taffeta tops & silver sequin evening pants | Emphasized waistlines with barrel-leg pants and snazzy finishes |
| Daytime & Draping | Handkerchief & shantung sundresses | Jutting side panels and maxi ruffles edging the hemline |
| Utility & Grunge | Cargo cotton miniskirts & military green bustiers | Billowing velvet-silk trains and baggy, uncompromised silhouettes |
| Subversive Layers | Base-layer Lycra bodysuits & scarf-like tops | Paired under balloon skirts and flowing silk frocks |
The Unput-Together Philosophy of Modern Luxury
Even when leaning into the rulebook of polite dressing, the collection resisted total conformity. A base-layer-like Lycra bodysuit sat awkwardly beneath a balloon skirt, and a scarf-like top wrapped tightly around the torso over a flowing silk frock. “It is not so put together,” Marques noted, summarizing an aesthetic that refuses to take itself too seriously.
What do you think of designers shifting their heritage shows to new fashion capitals? Let us know your take in the comments below.
