In an essay published on her Substack column, writer Rachel Loxton reflects on downtime abroad, detailing an afternoon spent in Berlin’s Neukölln district without fixed productivity goals or rigid schedules.
The Neukölln Afternoon That Refused to Cooperate
Instead of a structured itinerary, the pair encountered closed doors at their initial cafe choice in Neukölln, as well as a shuttered local Biergarten nestled in an old blacksmith’s workshop known as Zosse. With the afternoon turning warm and unscripted, the pair attempted to secure drinks from a local Späti—Berlin’s ubiquitous late-night corner shops equipped with communal bottle openers—only to find that shop closed with an “Im Urlaub” (on holiday) sign on the door.
Faced with closed venues, the pair improvised by visiting a local bakery where Sarah ordered a Schorle, while Loxton dashed home briefly to retrieve a can of Coke Zero. They settled onto a bench in a neighborhood square, observing a nearby ping-pong game, a child playing with a football, and individuals asking for money. During the conversation, Loxton noted Sarah’s glowing appearance and remarked that pregnancy suited her, a development that prompted lighthearted exchanges throughout the afternoon.
Spontaneous Detours and Neighborhood Observations
Moving beyond the square, the pair decided to check out an open storytelling event called Open Späti located on Karl-Marx-Straße. Along the route, they passed through streets characterized by construction work, passing a smaller square where residents sat with cigarettes amidst dug-up pavement. Loxton reflects in her writing on the pervasive culture of smoking in Neukölln, observing the contrast between finding dopamine in a simple roll-up tobacco cigarette versus modern smartphones designed by technology companies.
The walk featured casual encounters, including being catcalled by teenagers riding a scooter at high speed, leading to further banter about Sarah’s pregnancy announcement. After momentarily losing their bearings without relying on digital map applications, the pair returned to the vicinity of Sarah’s parked car. They spent a comical interval driving in circles around neighborhood construction sites before successfully finding a parking space near Neukölln station, where local police officers were stationed outside a large van.
Key Elements of the Berlin Afternoon
| Element | Details Described in the Essay |
|---|---|
| Location | Neukölln district, Berlin |
| Date/Time | Late September Saturday, approximately 4:00 PM |
| Closed Venues | Unidentified cafe-bar, Zosse Biergarten, and a local Späti |
| Activities | Visiting a bakery, sitting on a square bench, attending Open Späti on Karl-Marx-Straße |
Loxton’s account emphasizes the value of “nothing together” moments—downtime spent without optimizing every hour through running routines, skincare regimens, or side hustles. By contrasting the pressure of constant productivity with an afternoon of unstructured wandering, the essay captures a distinct rhythm of urban life in Berlin during the transitional warmth of early autumn.
